The typical food stand of the Fernandez sisters.
 
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December 2001

Sisters Cecilia and Casandra Fernández:

Reclaiming Our Own Flavors

From generation to generation and kitchen to kitchen, the "Bocados Típicos" of sisters Cecilia and Casandra Fernández recovers old Chilean traditions and places them over a table that tastes like love for what´s own.

Flowers, garlic braids and red-hot chili peppers, baskets and crafts are some of the various elements that decorate the warm place where sisters Cecilia and Casandra Fernández offer their "Bocados Típicos" ("Typical snacks") over a squeaky-clean white tablecloth. It´s something they do in fairs and cultural events and that invites the public to meet again the flavors of their childhood, their landscape, their grandmother and family.

"Our main source of lessons is the relation with people. We investigate and share what we know , and people also contribute a lot. Some get emotional when they see the things they used to eat or drink when kids. They stay here talking, eating `picarones´ or `sopaipillas´. They remember the farm, where they used to make corn-coffee because they wouldn´t have much money. They tell us about the things that were done in their homes, the traditions of certain places, they even give us recipes and secrets. We learn a lot. There´s a real rich exchange that makes the knowledge and tradition grow", explains Cecilia.

Empanadas (including the small "pequenes", filled with onion and chili-peppers, no meat), earthenware-oven baked bread, egg-bread, "picarones", "alfajores", thousand-layer cake ("something very typical, with the same dough and manjar of the alfajor"), jam, fig cakes ("an almost extint fruit") and merengues; are some of the delicious things that come out of her kitchen. From different places they get products such as "charqui", ulmo-honey and the traditional "chumbeque" from Iquique (a kind of small cookie filled with sugar and Pica-lemon). For the thirst, there´s always a glass of "mote con huesillos", served very cold and made on a clay-pot. You prepare the corn or fig-coffee, the "chupilca" (wine with toasted flour) or, better yet, the "mistela", a soft and very aromatic liquor made during the Colony only for women.

With their greatgrandmother´s recipe, which includes cinnamon, spices, orange skin, brandy and syrup; Casandra and Cecilia make their own "mistela", their stand´s great pride. That´s why they show it on bottles on an old cupboard where they also keep a picture of her old mentor, that more resembles an altar than a kitchen buffet. This drink is also made with celery or beetroot. "You can make it of many things", explains Cecilia. "Basically it is the boiling of a herb or a fruit with brandy and sugar".

     
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